Twenty one “out-of-thin-air” pounds and many, luscious, raw fish dreams later, my stomach was ready to eat itself, but I maintained and did what my momma told me: I finished what I started. So when it was time to treat myself to my “first meal” of sorts, the first (and only!) place that came to mind was Tokkuri Tei, a small, izaka-ya type Japanese restaurant off Kapahulu Avenue.

Tokkuri Tei Sign

Tokkuri Tei is, by far, my favorite “treat yourself” place to eat. With the most authentic tasting food and most realistic feeling izaka-ya vibe, it is as close to Japan that you can get without the hefty airfare.

I’ve mentioned the word izaka-ya a few times now, including in my title. Some of you are probably scratching your head asking yourself “what the heck is that buffoon referring to?” Loosely translated, the term izaka-ya in Japanese is a sake store/shop. In Japan, the term usually refers to a bar/pub that, in addition to sake (and other alcoholic drinks), serves up food, and good food at that. It’s always a popular pau hana stop for the hard working Japanese population because it’s casual and cheap, and sometimes carries unique, adventurous dishes you don’t often see anywhere else.

Teriyaki Cream Tofu - $7.50: “Tofu got a French Twist”

Tokkuri Tei is no different. They’ve been serving up some of the most innovative, imaginative and irresistible dishes since opening their doors at their initial location on Sheridan Street in 1989. Like their izaka-ya counterparts in Japan, when they were at this location, only a select number of us “in-the-know” knew of this relative hole-in-the-wall hot spot. Since moving to their more spacious Kapahulu location in 2000, the word has gotten out.

Tokkuri Tei’s humble beginnings started when Hideaki “Santa” Miyoshi, former manager of a Japanese restaurant named Shiruhachi, and Kazu “Kaz” Mitake, former sushi chef for Yanagi Sushi met and started a lunch wagon in Campbell Industrial Park in 1987. (Editor’s note: “Santa” explains that his nickname has nothing to do with Santa Claus. It is a Japanese name that means three times fatter than the others.)

“We were always talking about opening an izakaya type restaurant,” said Miyoshi. “In 1989, we got an investor from Japan and started Tokkuri tei. Originally we tried to name this restaurant ‘Izakaya Non’ literally ‘drinking’, since our corporation name is N.O.N. enterprises, too, but Izakaya Nonbei was open just before us. Kaz’s wife came up with this name “Tokkuri tei”. The logo represents the top view of the sake bottle in ‘masu’ (traditional square sake container).”

Too bad “Scrumptilicious” was already taken because that’s what the food here is. OK, so there’s nowhere actually named “Scrumptilicious,” but ya get the point.

Ika Yaki - $7.50: “Squid pancake taste like pumpkin pie (not quite)”

It’s easy making a “drinking” place with decent tasting food, but Tokkuri Tei has taken things to another level. Part, or I should say most of the reason for their success in the kitchen is the strength of both Kaz and Santa’s culinary background.

“Kaz is a very experienced chef. He is in (the) line of cooking for 30 years and also understands (the) importance of customers’ feedback,” says Santa. “He started working at Zippy’s, Furusato, Marushin, Torigin, Ohortsuku, then Yanagi. I was working for a Japanese restaurant in Tokyo before I came here as a (restaurant) manager. But we had trouble with our chef, so I had to start cooking to maintain the restaurant. Several friends taught me how to cook including Kaz. After I left the restaurant, I worked for Kengo’s for a year as a sashimi cutter. I dealt with 400 pounds of ahi every day. Then I worked for Shogun for little while. Then we started the lunch wagon.”

Santa has won awards in the Aloha Shoyu cooking contests, placed multiple times in Sam Choy’s Poke Contest (1st in 2000, 2nd in 2001), and was a top ten finalist for Tabasco’s cooking contests. At the Kapolei Uncorked event last year, he, alongside of Alan Wong, D.K. Kodama, and other top chefs, was a featured “Culinary Star.” The restaurant was featured in the New York Times, Elle Décor, Travel & Leisure and Sunset Magazine and is one of Oahu’s 100 Best Restaurants as named by the Honolulu Advertiser’s readers.

But don’t take my word for it. Feast your eyes on the shots below of the more popular dishes served here.

Ahi Tar-Tare Poke - $15: 1997 Sam Choy’s Poke Contest Winner

There’s a Spider in Da Poke - $16: 2000 Sam Choy’s Poke Contest Winner

Stuffed Portobello - $9.50: Portobello stuffed with sticky rice - yes it’s half eaten!

If you’re a butter fan, try something from their Bata Itame section on the menu. My favorite is the Tako! Imo! (Octopus! Potato!) choice.

Tako! Imo! - $6.50: Potato & Octopus

One of the more amusing things you’ll notice about the menu is the descriptions of the dishes. It’s one thing that many of the dish titles are Japanese, but when you see things descriptions like “You Do Who! What?” (Yu Dofu), “I can’t explain. Can you?” (Kanpyo Roll), “It tastes better than worm” (Caterpillar Roll) or my personal favorite “You’ll never know till you try.” (Anago Yanagawa), it doesn’t help much.

Funny, vague dish descriptions

Thankfully, you can go omakase (”leave it up to them”) if they like you and they’re not too busy. This is when you tell them what kinds of ingredients you like, and they’ll concoct dishes based around those interests. You can rest assured though that whatever comes out of their kitchen, omakase or not, will be top notch!

So what’s next for Hawaii’s best Izaka-ya? Believe it or not, they are planning to publish a cook book. You can be sure that I’ll be the first in line to pick up that puppy. After all, I’ve got 21 sushi-filled pounds to put back!

Tokkuri Tei 611 Kapahulu Ave, Suite 102 Honolulu, HI 96815 (map) (808) 739-2800

worldwideed.honadvblogs.com
(World Wide Ed blog on the Honolulu Advertiser web site)

Haleakala Visitor Center

As most of us already know, the best way to see the summit is at sunrise. So set your rooster for early o’clock so you can wake up and head there while it’s still dark. Depending on the time of year (check local sunrise info), the sun will come up at different times. Plan for a drive of about an hour and a half (from Kahului) prior to that sunrise time. You should probably plan a little more than that if you want a good spot against the railing (front row view).

Front Row Seating at Haleakala Visitor Center

(Tip - Weather conditions up top will be non-Hawaii-like - typically 20-30 degrees colder than sea level - so be sure to bring layers of blankets and warm clothing to protect yourself from the elements.).

If you can get through the early morning wake-up, long, windy drive, and frigid temperatures, you will take away the breathless memories from Haleakala that was meant just for you.

Sunrise at Haleakala (animation)

Haleakala National Park (map) (808) 572-4400

As you come down Haleakala Highway (Highway 378) poke your head into the Sunrise Market and Protea Farm (turn on Ponimoi Place). It’s a nice little gift shop where you can refuel on snacks and drinks as well as send Protea Flower arrangements to a friend or loved one. There is even a Protea Farm in the back that you can walk through for free.

Flower at Sunrise Protea Farm

Sunrise Protea Gift Shop 16157 Haleakala Highway Kula, HI 96790 (map) (808) 876-0200

Another interesting stop for omiyage (and I should have covered this last month when we were in Kula) is Tedeschi Winery/Vineyard. You can stop here and have free wine tasting (9am-5pm daily) as well as guided tours (10:30am, 1:30pm and 3pm).

Wine Selection at Tedeschi Winery/Vineyard

Tedeschi Winery/Vineyard Highway 37 Kula, HI 96790 (map) (808) 878-6058

You can’t talk Maui, without mentioning the 68 miles of twisty, windy, narrowness that is Hana Highway. So let’s take that dangerous, but scenic road, and see what we find along the way.

We first stopped at Kaumahina State Wayside, a small picnicking rest stop with exotic plants and scenic views of the northeast Maui coastline.

Kaumahina State Wayside (map) Open 6am-6pm Daily

We continue East and stop at a scenic point to snap some shots of Hana Highway.

We continue East until we pass mile marker 31 and turn left onto Ulaino Road. There, we will find The Hana Lava Tube at Ka`eleku Caverns, a self-guided, lava tube/cave tour, complete with stalagmites, stalactites and other naturally formed spectacles. The tube was formed naturally when lava used to flow through the earth. Today, it is an $11.95 tour of yesteryear.

The Hana Lava Tube at Ka`eleku Caverns - Visitor Check In

The Hana Lava Tube at Ka`eleku Caverns - Sign

Descending into the abyss, the mouth of the lava tube.

Approaching darkness. Thank goodness for the provided flashlights.

Ropey Pahoehoe Explanation

Lava walls resembling brownies

Volcano Vent Sign

Volcano Vent

Duck Under Sign

Head’s Up! - Duck Under

Beyond the duck under, you’ll find interesting lava/rock formations…

And then the tour ends.

Stop Here! Tour End Sign

So we turn around and head back, but not before posing for the camera.

Posing before heading back to the beginning

And then, you see the light. [insert heavenly "Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" sound]

The steps back to flat earth (and sunlight) were never sweeter.

Steps out of the Hana Lava Tube at Ka`eleku Caverns

The Hana Lava Tube at Ka`eleku Caverns 205 Ulaino Road Hana, HI 96713 (map) (808) 248-7308

Nothing better than worshipping this long-time-no-see sunlight by hitting up the beach, so it’s down the street we go to Wai`anapanapa State Park.

Wai`anapanapa State Park Sign

In addition to picnic and camping areas, caves and a blow hole, this state park also includes a beautiful black sand beach.

Black Sand Beach at Wai`anapanapa State Park

Wai`anapanapa State Park (map)

And there it is. The entire island of Maui, jam-packed into three months of words and imagery. Hope you enjoyed the ride. At least enough to give you a Wowie in Maui, natural high…

Maui no ka oi!

Put on your walking shoes for a brisk stroll through our first stop - historic Paia Town on Maui’s North Shore.

Wen, Steph, Shorts, Marvy, Mai, B, Jerm, Kawads and Tender Ronie enjoying their walk through old Paia Town

This quaint beach town offers a laid-back alternative to the hustle and bustle of some of the bigger towns/cities in Maui.

Paia Town Paia Town, Paia, Maui, HI (map)

As we move south, we’ll take a lil’ lunch break at Kula Lodge & Restaurant.

Kula Lodge & Restaurant Sign

Known for their gorgeous sweeping views of mountain and sea, this restaurant serves up salads, burgers, sandwiches, a few entrees, and their popular gourmet pizzas, baked in a kiawe fired brick oven.

Terrace Special Combo Pizza - Marinara Sauce, Four Cheeses, Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, Mushrooms, Kula Onion, and Sliced Black Olives - $19

Kula Lodge Garden Fresh Vegetarian Pizza - Thick hand tossed dough with our Grilled Seasoned Vegetables & Feta Cheese - $17

Bacon - Blue Cheeseburger - Smoked bacon and blue cheese cover this 1/2 lb. Black Angus burger charbroiled to perfection and topped with onions, tomatoes and lettuce on a toasted sesame bun. - $13

After lunch, be sure to venture outside to view the explosion of colors in their garden.

Have your camera on hand because it’s a definite photo opp out here!

Group shot outside Kula Lodge & Restaurant

There is much more to this piece of property than the restaurant and view though. There is a Marketplace (good place for omiyage) and, according to their web site (and namesake for that matter), even a lodge/chalet where you can stay for extended visits.

Kula Lodge & Restaurant 15200 Haleakala Hwy. Route 377 Kula, Maui, Hawaii 96790 (map) (808) 878-1535 1-800-233-1535 info@kulalodge.com

OK, we’ve finally come to the exciting part of the tour where we can put our forks and chopsticks down and throw caution to the wind. Less biting, more flighting (is that even a word!?). Less food, more of something to put us in a good mood and go “Duuuude!” OK, one too many corny lines. Noted. Let’s head south and hit up Skyline Eco-Adventures from some Ziplinin’!

Skyline Eco-Adventures Sign

Located along the slopes of Haleakala, Skyline Eco-Adventures was founded in 2002 by father and son team Buck & Danny Boren. These outdoor enthusiasts (one, a former radiologist and the other a Small Business Management college graduate and former surf guide) had tried ziplines in Costa Rica in 2001 and thought that it would be a great, new, environmentally responsible activity to bring back to their home on Maui. The Haleakala Skyline Tour turned out to be the first zipline tour in the United States (there are currently about 15 different zipline tour operations across the United States), and they have since opened a second tour location above Ka’anapali in 2007.

Besides the fact that it is a fun, adrenaline rush of a good time with the ziplining itself, you also get a brisk hike in here and there (required to go from launch pad to launch pad), while getting educated on local issues of conservation and preservation.

“Conservation is extremely important to our company,” explains co-founder Danny Boren. “We donate AT LEAST 1% of our sales (and usually quite a bit more) to protection of Maui’s environment (the groups we donate to are listed on our website). We recycle at all of our company locations, and pay for curbside recycling for all of our employees at their homes.”

Boren continues, “We are also the world’s ONLY Carbon Neutral zipline operator… that means that we offset carbon emissions for every aspect our business (vehicles, store, office). In other words, our company does not contribute to Global Warming. The money we pay for carbon offsets goes toward creating new renewable energy projects across the country. Last year we offset 85 tons of carbon emissions (even though we use less than half of that). There are a number of other things as well, we have a native forest restoration area that we have created alongside our Haleakala Skyline Tour… we pay our employees to go out and work with local non-profit groups, we always buy local first for all products, most of the shirts we sell in our retail store is made with Organic Cotton… etc.”

When we visited the tour, we were educated about the native birds (including the `Alala, `Akohekohe, Maui Parrotbill, Nene and `Io) at each of the 5 ziplining launching points.

`Alala (Hawaiian Crow) info at first launching point

So with the ziplining, hiking and eduction, you really get three tours in one. But enough with the chit-chat, let’s get a zippin’!

You must check in at least half an hour before the tour starts (see below for times), so that you can fill out the paperwork and get strapped in with the proper gear.

Ziplining Gear

Ziplining Helmets

Marvin, Steph, Eric, Jeremy and Ronie buckling themselves in

(Note: If you’re “Monk”-like you may wish to consider bringing a bandana to wear between your beautiful head of hair and the oft-used public set of helmets they require).

You’re then given a quick pep talk and education session and then you’re off on your hike to the first launching point, the Alala.

Eric, Steph (hidden), Marvin, Mai, Shorts and our guide hiking to our first line.

Marvin looks concerned while Steph, Shorts and Mai say, “It ain’t no thang!”

The first line is meant to start slow, with each successive line growing in length and speed.

Mai setting up for the Akohekohe line

[video - coming soon]
Mai on the Maui Parrotbill line

Shorts getting strapped in for the Nene line

Below is a list of the 5 lines and their descriptions:

1) Alala - The Hawaiian Crow (there are only about 52 of these birds left) - 125 ft. long & 25 ft. high. (this is the warm up zipline)

2) Akohekohe - The Crested Honeycreeper (there are about 3,500 of these birds left - they only live on East Maui) - 150 ft. long & 75 ft. high (this one has a shear drop off the take off!)

3) The Maui Parrotbill (there are about 250 - 400 of these birds left, they are only found in East Maui and are the rarest forest bird left on Maui) - 225 ft long & 75 ft. high (this zips over the top of the next zipline)

4) Nene - The Hawaiian Goose (there are somewhere around 1200 Nene left, and as you know it is our State Bird) - 330 ft. long & 45 ft. high (this is a great zipline right down the center of the valley)

4a) Swinging Bridge - during the hike that follows the Nene line, you cross a semi daunting swinging bridge that takes you across a gorge.

Swinging Bridge

And then we hit the mother lode. The zipline of all ziplines. The grand `Io finale.

5) ‘Io - The Hawaiian Hawk (there are around 1500 of these birds left, all on the Big Island) - 750 ft. long - 125 ft. high and you go over 40 mph!

The `Io (Hawaiian Hawk) line view from above

What a rush!

[video - coming soon]
First Person view of the `Io Line

So why should you try your hand (and feet) at Ziplining at Skyline Eco-Adventures? Boren offers up some reasons, “There are any number of reasons why someone might want to come on a tour with Skyline Eco-Adventures, but the primary reason is that it is just plain FUN!  Customers have the rare opportunity to leap from cliffs and fly hundreds of feet through the air… eventually landing comfortably on the other side of the valley. It is also a fun way to learn about Hawaii, each of our tours shares interesting information about Hawaii, and most customers learn new things while having a great time. Beyond that we are a true local family owned company, and we try to give back to our community in many ways. Lastly, we are by far the most experienced zipline operator in the United States (which sounds a little odd being as how we are from Maui, but it’s undeniably true), and have a great safety record… with more than 500,000 customer zips over the last 6 years we’ve only had about 4 twisted ankles (primarily on the hike) on our tours! We are also the only zipline operator in the country that is fully qualified and insured to build our own ziplines… 100% Maui Made!”

How about the fact that online bookings get a 10% discount, but Kama`aina who call direct get an even better 25% discount!?

Skyline is already looking at other locations around Hawaii and on the Mainland, and hope to launch at least one or two new tours in the next year. For more information or to book a tour, can (808) 878-8400.

Obligatory Group Shot

Skyline Eco Adventures Take Hwy. 37 (Haleakala Highway) to Hwy. 377. Turn left on Highway 378 (crater Road, drive 2.5 miles and look for the red and white building on the left (map) (808) 878-8400 Tour Departs daily at 8:30am, 9:30am, 11:30am, 12:30pm, 2pm and 3pm.

The Haleakala summit is sooo close I can taste it, but since part 2 of this series is so action packed as it is, it looks like I’m going to have to break the rest of this into a Wowie in Maui - Part 3.

Hang on to your seats, next month, we’ll cover Haleakala National Park and the Hana Lava Tube at Ka`eleku Caverns fo sho, with possible forays into Tedeschi Winery, Sunrise Protea Gift Shop, Tutu’s, Kaumahina State Wayside and Wai‘anapanapa State Park. Stay tuned, Shorty!

Pretty much as far West as you can get is the city of Lahaina. If touristy shopping is your bag, then this is your place. As somewhat the equivalent of a countrified version of Waikiki, Front Street is where you’ll find all the little shops and restaurants to please your palette. (I may be alone on this one, but for some reason Front Street also reminds me of the Fisherman’s Wharf area in San Francisco. Anyone else?)

Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii

Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, HI 96761 (map)

We ate the ribs at Front Street Grill and Bar, but I honestly don’t remember much. Not that it was bad, but it just wasn’t memorably good, naw-mean. It is however, a great place for fresh air and people watching, as the restaurant overlooks Front Street.

Ribs from Front Street Grill and Bar

Front Street Grill and Bar 672 Front Street Lahaina, HI 96761 (map) (808) 662-3003

Working our way east, we cannot forget to mention Iao Needle at the Iao Valley State Park. I say “mention” because I unfortunately have no photographic proof of actually going there, just my memories. *blush* But since my memories are useless to you, here are a couple of useful links to help you get edu-ma-cated. While you’re off visiting those, I’ll type up my favorite cheesy Iao Needle joke for when you come back.

• Iao Valley State Park
• “Iao Needle” image search results from Google

Welcome back. How were those links? Pretty cherry ah? Anyway, here goes with the cheesy Iao Needle joke:

Q) How did Iao Needle get its name?
A) One day, dis guy wen sit on um and yelled “Iiiiiiaowww!”

Yeah, lame, I know… but don’t say I didn’t warn you. *grin*

One thing to note, be sure to bring your umbrella-ella-ella, as it rains often here.

Iao Valley State Monument/Park (Iao Needle) End of Iao Valley Road, Highway 32 Wailuku, Maui, HI 96793 (map)

Ohhhh K, moving right along…

How ’bout a little crispy manju action from Home Maid Bakery?

Home Maid Bakery sign

Inconspicuously located on Lower Main Street in Wailuku, this mom & pops store has been baking up fresh pastries and sweets like malasadas, doughnuts and their popular crispy manju since 1960. My personal favorite is the peanut butter filled mochi. You heard it here first!

Home Maid Bakery 1005 Lower Main Street Wailuku, HI 96793 (map) Bakery: 244-4150 Office: 244-7015 Open 7 days a week, 5am-10pm

Moving east, we hit the Queen Kaahumanu Center, for those of you getting a bad case of shopping withdrawals.

Queen Ka`ahumanu Center sign

With a good sized food court, 6-screen movie theater, and the usual shopping center shops and anchor tenants (see store directory here), you’ll want to make sure you don’t miss local favorite Koho’s Grill & Bar.

Having a little too much fun in front of the Koho Grill and Bar sign

Be forewarned though. It is often crowded here and is known to (sometimes) take long with food orders. Today, I got the veggie burger with fries.

Veggie burger with fries

Queen Kaahumanu Center 275 W Kaahumanu Ave # 1200 Kahului, HI 96732 (map) (808) 877-3369 Mall Hours: Mon-Sat: 9:30am-9:00pm, Sun: 10:00am-5:00pm

Koho Grill & Bar 275 W Kaahumanu Ave # 245 Kahului, HI 96732 (map) (808) 877-5588

In case you didn’t enough of yo shop on, we’ll head to the next mall, Maui Mall on nearby East Kaahumanu Avenue. They’ve also got a bevy of stores of interest like Long’s Drug Store, Fun Factory, and the 12 theater Maui Mall Megaplex (see store directory here), but the real reason most visitors come here is get a tasty treat from the ever-popular Tasaka Guri Guri.

Tasaka Guri Guri sign

This famously sweet, juice, soda and condensed milk concoction is undeniably addicting, and the prices are still mom and pop-ish (starts at just $1 for 2 scoops).

Tasaka Guri Guri

Tasaka Guri Guri 70 E Kaahumanu Ave Kahului, HI 96732 (map) (808) 871-4513

Another merchant in the Maui Mall with name value is IHOP (International House of Pancakes), the first in the state.

Maui’s IHOP sign

This is the very IHOP that was well documented during Season 3 of American Idol, when it was revealed that Hawaii contestant Camile Velasco used to work for her parents here before trying out for the singing competition.

Today, I ordered a hard-to-ruin, eggs, hash and link sausage breakfast, also known as the Quick Two-Egg Breakfast.

Quick Two-Egg Breakfast: Two Eggs, Two savory pork sausage links (or two bacon strips), plus hash browns and toast

Yeah, I didn’t order pancakes at the International House of Pancakes… Sue me!

IHOP 70 E Kaahumanu Ave Kahului, HI 96732 (map) (808) 871-4000

Did I hear somebody say doughnuts? Your wish is my command. Sitting on nearby Kele Street, the State’s only Krispy Kreme Doughnuts location awaits us.

Krispy Kreme sign

With a plethora of flavors and styles, hand-carrying a few dozen of these tasty treats home is always a popular omiyage option for those of us who live on another island.

Krispy Kreme Doughnut Selection

(Tip - I’ve mentioned this before, but if you’re cheap, you can come here and sometimes be offered free samples of their popular Original Glazed doughnut, fresh off the conveyor belt).

Krispy Kreme Doughnuts 433 Kele Street Kahului, HI 96732 (map) Phone: (808) 893-0883

Enough with the eats you say? Fine. Let’s head south and hit up the Maui Ocean Center to see Hawaii’s most spectacular marine life in action.

Maui Ocean Center sign

Your first attraction (follow along using the park map) to the right of the entrance is the Living Reef, defined as “Hawaii’s beautiful tropical fishes and living coral reefs, in awe-inspiring marine habitats.” Here are scenes from the Living Reef.

Upon exiting the Living Reef, you’ll pass by Turtle Lagoon - “Hawaii’s green sea turtles are a wonder to behold,”

Maui Ocean Center - Turtle Lagoon

before hitting the Tide Pool - “Enjoy an up close and personal look at Hawaii’s marine life.”

Maui Ocean Center - Tide Pool

And then you’ll make your way to Hammerhead Harbor: “Come eye to eye with Hawaii’s most unusual sharks, scalloped by hammerheads.”

Maui Ocean Center - Hammerhead Harbor

From there, we’ll go into the Marine Mammal Discovery Center,

Maui Ocean Center - Marine Mammal Discovery Center

which includes the Hawaiians and the Sea display and the Open Ocean tank and tunnel. Following are some scenes from here.

For more detailed information about the various exhibits, visit the visitor information page at mauioceancenter.com.

Maui Ocean Center 192 Maalaea Rd Wailuku, HI 96793 (map) (808) 270-7000

We round out our western tour of Maui by traveling south to a fun Italian Restaurant called Bada Bing in Kihei. It’s no high class restaurant by any stretch of the imagination, but if you’re looking for simple, like-home pasta, or as I like to call it: “Spaghetto,” this is your place.

Bada Bing Menu/Display

Looking for fancy tablecloths and air conditioning? Fuhgedaboudit! It’s checkerboard table covers and ceiling fans for you. But the eats hits the spot.

One Big Meatball - 1/2 lb Meatball Smothered in Marinara Sauce - $9.99

Meat Lasagna - $11.99

Bada Bing 1945 S Kihei Rd # G Kihei, HI 96753 (map) (808) 875-0188

What’s that you say? Not enough Wowie in Maui for ya? Relax Tampax. I’ve got you covered next month in part deux. Since we mostly stuffed our faces in this one, prepare your bones for some action next month with Ziplining and Lava Tubing as well as some sights to behold like Kaumahina State Wayside, Wai`anapanapa State Park and a beautiful sunrise at Haleakala. How ’bout that for some Wowie!?

Diamond Head State Monument Sign

Diamond Head, also known as Le`ahi, is believed to have been created about 300,000 years ago during a single brief eruption of the southeastern end of the Ko`olau Range. Since the winds were blowing the volcanic ash towards the west during the eruption, the southwestern rim is the highest point, forming its now famous shape.

Diamond Head got its name in the late 1700 when the Western explorers visited it and mistook the calcite crystals in the rocks on the slope of the crater for diamonds. Previous to that, it is said that Hi`iaka, sister of the fire goddess Pele, named it Le`ahi because the summit resembled the forehead (lae) of the `ahi fish.

The rich history behind this gorgeous range led it to be recognized as a National Natural Landmark in 1968. Today millions of tourists and locals alike, enjoy both the legendary view from afar, as well as the breathtaking view from atop the summit, culminating its 0.8 mile historic trail hike.

We start our journey by driving into the State Monument off of Diamond Head Road (optionally, you can find street parking nearby and walk in). Not long into the drive off Diamond Head Road, you’ll approach the Kahala Tunnel,

Kahala Tunnel on the way to Diamond Head State Monument

which you’ll drive through to get to a clearing…

Sign to Diamond Head Park

that directs you to the parking lot area.

(Note! - The admission fee is $1 per person on foot or $5 per non-commercial vehicle. If you’re looking to save some paper, consider walking it from Diamond Head Road as suggested earlier. If you’re looking to save your energy for the hike itself, drive on in. You may have to wait in line for a stall, but the wait usually isn’t too long).

At the admission’s gate or Information Center, be sure to pick up the green brochure before you hike the trail. There is a handy map, some history of the park and tips on having a safe hike. It will be an even better idea if you download it ahead of time here from the Department of Land and Natural Resources’ Hawaii State Parks web site.

Speaking of the map, let’s show it to you here. We’ll try to follow the 12 Points of Interest (endearingly renamed by me to POI) listed in the brochure with the images I took. Should be fun times, let’s see what happens…

Diamond Head Trail Map courtesy of the Department of Land and Natural Resources Division of State Parks

Just past the comfort station, POI1 (Point of Interest #1) is the Trailhead Kiosk and described as follows: the trailhead at the parking lot is on the crater floor. Elevation of 200 feet (61 m).

Trailhead Kiosk

The brisk 0.8 mile one way climb to the summit is said to take about an hour to an hour and a half. This is usually in the scorching heat, and not always on a paved path, so be sure to bring water, good footwear, and lather yourself up with sun tan lotion. Some other trail notes to adhere by:

Trail Notes sign

This leads us to POI2: the Concrete Walkway - the concrete portion of the trail was recently installed to reduce trail erosion. The former pistol ranges are marked by earthen berms visible along the lower section of the trail.

Concrete Walkway

Once the concrete walkway turns to dirt,

you’re well on your way. POI3 consists of a multiple switchback trail that zigzags its way up the interior slope. Historically, it was designed for mules that hauled materials up the trail for the construction of Fire Control Station Diamond Head located at the summit. Following are some neat shots I took from POI3: The dirt trail conforms to the 1908 trail alignment and consists of numerous switchbacks up the steep interior slope.

Scenes from the switchback trail

Scenes from the switchback trail - Stay on Trial sign

Scenes from the switchback trail - Looking up towards the lookout

Scenes from the switchback trail - You know I had to do it!

Scenes from the switchback trail

Scenes from the switchback trail - Looking back from the lookout.

Upon completion of the zigzagging portion of the trail, you’ll hit POI4: the Concrete Landing/Lookout. This foundation held a winch and cable to lift materials from the crater floor to a point on the trail.

Enjoying the view from the lookout

Don’t get too relaxed! The toughest gluteus maximus workout is yet to come with two daunting stair sets, the first of which is 74 steps and POI5: Steep stairway of 74 concrete steps leading into the first tunnel.

74 Step Staircase - View from below

74 Step Staircase - View from above

Scary isn’t it? You ain’t seen nuthin’ yet. Once you burn your legs for those 74 steps and pass through the POI6 tunnel - Passage through a lighted 225-foot long, narrow tunnel,

225 foot long tunnel separating the two staircases.

you’re faced with 99 additional big ones at POI7: Second stairway consisting of 99 steep steps. The cross-beams above the stairway supported camouflaging.

99 Step Staircase

99 Step Staircase

99 Step Staircase - Elevation 703.556 feet

99 Step Staircase - Looking down

(Note!: After the tunnel separating the two staircases, turn left to take in another lookout point not mentioned in the brochure. This will also give you a good place to take a break before taking on the 99 step behemoth.)

My second cousin Teppei enjoying the view as well as the break between steps.

You’ve done it! One hundred and seventy three steps of glory! We’ve GOT to be close to the summit eh? Well, not quite. At the top of the 99 stepper, we hit the POI8 tunnel - At the top of the stairs is the entry to the lowest level of Fire Control Station Diamond Head which housed the observation equipment for Fort DeRussy at Waikiki.

Teppei happy to be done with the stairs… for now!

Just when you thought you were safe from stairs for the rest of your life, you’ll hit a spiral staircase originally used by the Fire Control Station, which is also POI9: This lighted spiral staircase accessed the 4 levels of the Fire Control Station. Go up to the third level where the mounts for the observation equipment are still present.

Spiral Staircase

When you get to the third floor, you’ll approach POI10 to exit the crater: Exit to the exterior of the crater through slits once covered with metal shutters.

Exiting the crater

Note the rock and concrete that camouflage the structure on the seaward side.

As you work your way along the crater path, POI11 comes a-callin’. Something you haven’t seen in quite some time… MORE STAIRS! Don’t fret, this is the last you’ll see until you hit the summit: The 54 metal stairs replaced the ladder to the summit in the 1970s for hiker safety.

54 metal stairs to the summit.

Alas, you’ve made it to the summit of Oahu’s answer to Nepal’s Mt. Everest: Mount Diamond Head. Go ahead and pat yourself on the back. But before you get too excited, you may want to brace yourself for the cockroach-like crowd up top. Agoraphobics/Claustrophobics/Demophobics/Enochlophobics/Ochlophobics, consider yourselves warned.

The crowd at Diamond Head’s Summit

Once you make your way through the crowd, you’ll get to our final Point of Interest, POI12: The Observation Station - The summit of the crater and the uppermost level of the Fire Control Station are at an elevation of 761 feet (232 m). Bunkers along the crater rim were built in 1915.

With its panoramic view from Koko Head to Waianae, the summit of Diamond Head was once the ideal site for the coastal defense of Oahu and, as such, was purchased by the Federal Government in 1904 and designated for military use.

East view

Today, we can enjoy this beautiful panoramic view, as citizens, thanks to the Division of State Parks from the Department of Land and Natural Resources.

South view

West View

North of Crazy View
(Teppei and I showing how happy we were to have made it)

Mahalo to the Department of Land and Natural Resources, DLNR’s Public Information Officer Deborah Ward and the Division of State Parks’ Diamond Head Park Coordinator Yara Lamadrid-Rose. They would like to let everyone know that the park will be open for regular park hours (6AM-6PM) on New Year’s Day, so why not fulfill your New Year’s resolution from day 1 and start the new year right?

Diamond Head Summit Trail
4200 Diamond Head Rd, Honolulu, HI 96816 (map)
(808) 587-0285
Open daily 6AM-6PM
$1 Per Person, $5 Per Vehicle

For further information, contact:
Department of Land & Natural Resources Division of State Parks
1151 Punchbowl Street, Room 310
(P.O. Box 621)
Honolulu, HI. 96809
Phone: (808) 587-0300

We made it! (and you can too…)

Huh? You didn’t do what? Don’t make me schedule a parent-teacher conference!

If you have no idea what I’m talking about here’s a lil’ briefer: See and Eat Seattle - Part I. Historically we learned that a feller by the name Doc Maynard named the city of Seattle in 1853 after chief Noah Sealth. However, you and I both agreed that the word Seattle looked more like Sea and Eat with “tle” tacked to the end. Your assignment was to help me figgah out what the “tle” stood for. Remember?

K, now that we’re all caught up, let’s dive in.

Paseo’s Caribbean Restaurant was another one of those we discovered as a “favorite” of them online Yelpians. A rustic hole-in-the-wall type, complete with aluminum siding, this quaint eatery based in the Fremont area (in Seattle, not Vegas! ) is quite popular with the locals.

Paseo’s Caribbean Restaurant

I tried the Grilled Chicken Breast plate while the other two got the Caribbean Scallops.

Grilled Chicken Breast - 6 oz. of boneless, skinless, all white goodness. Grilled over an open fire with a caramelized coating of Paseo marinade embracing in all its natural juices ($11.25).

Caribbean Scallops - Savory sea scallops seared in extra virgin olive oil & our garlic tapenade. Submerged in their rojo sauce with diced tomatoes, onion, fire roasted red peppers & mixed veggies. Available with fresh cilantro or spice 1-5 stars ($11.25).

They are quite known for their sandwiches, but because of our arrival time (dinner), they were all sold out. Perhaps we should’ve went earlier to try the sandwiches out for size because the chicken was not all that great. At least with the rating that the Yelpians gave this joint.

Paseo Caribbean Restaurant 4225 Fremont Ave N Seattle, WA 98103 (map) (206) 545-7440

Our next stop is Umi Sake House, a contemporary sushi spot that looks like it could double as a night club. Probably because the area that it sits on used to be the hip nightclub called Bada Lounge.

Umi Sake House

With its cutting edge menu that pushes the envelope, Umi has officially taken over as my favorite sushi restaurant in downtown Seattle, formerly held by Shiro’s Sushi just one street over. (Funny sidebar story: Shiro’s was “discovered” by my pops who randomly asked a stranger on the bus where the best sushi was. After gaving him a strange look, he replied “Shiro’s”. Seriously? Who asks strangers on a bus where to eat!? ).

I started with a soup that was recommended by the owner: the Spicy King Crab soup. It was very tasty, but buyer beware, da buggah is spicy!!!

Spicy King Crab Soup - King crab, onions, cilantro & black tobiko ($8).

We then ventured into the Octopus Carpaccio, which proved to be THE most delicious way I’ve ever eaten an octopus. And that’s saying a lot because my own tako poke recipe is the bomb!

Octopus Carpaccio - thin sliced octopus served on mustard, soy, cilantro oil aioli with roasted and peppered tomato mignonette ($12).

While checking out the Fresh/Special List, something called the Geoduck caught my eye. I was like WTH? A cross between a car and a feathered friend? Then, I found out that it’s actually pronounced “gooey duck” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geoduck) and after reading a description that said “Giant clam caught live from the Pacific NW” I just had to have it!

Geoduck - Giant clam caught live from the Pacific NW (Sushi $4, Sashimi $15).

Whether, it was “duck” or clam, it was featherly delish!

Then we ordered a flurry of rolls, like the Spicy Crunch Roll, Legend of the Rolls, First Ave Roll, and the 007 Roll.

Spicy Crunch Roll (above) - Fried spicy tuna, with avocado topping with sweet chili aioli ($12) and Legend of the Rolls (below) - Shrimp tempura roll with crab & creamy scallops on top then torched, served with teriyaki & tobiko ($15)

First Ave Roll - Shrimp tempura, avocado, cucumber, tobiko topped with spicy tuna & spicy mayonnaise ($12)

007 Roll - Spicy tuna, avocado, cucumber wrapped with salmon, lime, cilantro, shishito pepper & jalapeno ($12).

Umi Sake House 2230 First Ave Seattle, WA 98121 (map) (206) 374-8717 Monday through Sunday 4pm-2am

You can’t be from Hawaii and NOT stop by Seattle’s favorite “Hawaii-ish” hotspot: Ohanas, where you’re bound to see a familiar face or two! So for that reason alone, we’ll walk right across the street to enjoy some after hour drinks and live, pau hana style music (Wednesdays only). Maika`i!

Live Island Music on Wednesday Nights

`Ohana Restaurant & Sushi Bar 2207 First Ave Seattle, WA 98121 (map) (206) 956-9329

I mention this next stop mostly because of the food shots I had that I didn’t want to go unseen. Joey’s is a Canadian based chain of restaurants that has made its way to the great Northwest. Locally, it has a reputation of being the place to be to find lookers, both employees and patrons alike. The food wasn’t so bad either.

Ahi Tuna Tacos - Seared rare Ahi tuna, Asian coleslaw, wonton tacos, & wasabi-lime aioli. ($8.99)

Earth & Surf Calamari - Crispy calamari, tempura vegetables & roasted red bell pepper aioli. ($9.99)

Chinatown Lettuce Wraps - Hoisin vegetables, crispy noodles, peanuts & fresh cilantro. Veggie ($8.99) Add chicken or shrimp ($2.99)

Joey’s Lake Union 901 Fairview Avenue North Seattle, WA. 98108-4457 (map) (206) 749-JOEY (5639) Open daily 11am - 2am

We didn’t have big expectations for our next stop other than eating with a beautiful view of the Seattle skyline across Elliott Bay. We’ve heard a lot about Salty’s on Alki, but didn’t think it was more than just a Fish ‘N Chips type of place. Boy were we wrong.

Salty’s on Alki

Salty’s on Alki is the brainchild of restaurant super-entrepreneur Gerry Kingen, of Red Robin fame, who opened his first two Salty’s Restaurants (formerly known as Salty Pickerel & Angus McHereford on the Willamette in Portland, Oregon, and Redondo Beach in Des Moines, Washington) in 1980 and 1981. In 1985, Kingen purchased the then Beach Broiler and turned it into his 3rd highly successful Salty’s Restaurant.

A large part of Salty’s success is Kingen’s commitment to keeping his guests happy. He’s so serious about that fact that he’s named his company Happy Guests International, Inc. Salty’s’ staff training program emphasizes this concept further by supplying cards that contain information like their motto, philosophy and credo that team members carry with them. They also get a handbook that touches on every aspect of their employment as well as how they should treat guests.

OK, so they’ve got the customer service part covered. How’s their food you ask? Well, their awards speak for themselves. They’ve won numerous honors ranging from Best seafood, Best brunch, Best waterfront view, Best outdoor dining, Most Romantic, Best Place to Propose, etc. (see their long list of awards here: http://www.saltys.com/awards/index.asp).

And with that, let’s dig in!

After catching your breath from the spectacular sweeping view of the Seattle skyline (viewable from almost every seat in the house), you are first greeted with their breadstick/Lavash/muffin-ish type basket.

Breadstick/Lavash/muffin-ish type basket

Next (from their newly refurbished kitchen) came our starter order of the Coconut-Flaked Tiger Prawns, which, along with Salty’s Chowder and Wild Salmon dishes, is amongst Salty’s best sellers.

Coconut-Flaked Tiger Prawns - Sweet and sour pickled root vegetables, thick Thai chili sauce ($14.95)

Did somebody say Wild Salmon was a best-seller too? OK then! Here’s the Crab-Stuffed Wild Salmon dish.

Crab-Stuffed Wild Salmon - Lemon caper relish, champagne herb beurre blanc, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, house vegetables ($36.95)

For the last dish, we chose something off the Market Sheet of the day: the Panko and Nori-Crusted Alaskan Halibut.

Panko and Nori-Crusted Alaskan Halibut - with Lemongrass scented sticky rice, black bean wilted pea vines, sunomono salad, and a spring carrot vinaigrette ($29.95)

Salty’s wine selection is also quite extensive, led by their Sommelier Tim O’Brien, who, oh-by-the-way is the Washington Wine Commission’s 2006 Sommelier of the Year.

“We know that our guests are sometimes intimidated by wine so our lists are formatted to make it easy to understand and to find a wine you will be pleased with. We are proud that we have won awards from The Wine Spectator, The Wine Enthusiast Magazine and Washington Wine Commission, for ‘Excellence’ and ‘Distinction,’ but our number-one goal is to make the list easy for you to use so that wine and food happens naturally with as little stress as possible. If you don’t see a recommended food-wine pairing on our menu, please ask your server. They are trained to guide you to a choice that is right for you,” states O’Brien.

Salty’s Bar area is also a fun place to be. They have music on Monday and Friday and a pianist during the weekend brunch. For a list of what’s available at their bar, aptly named the Apothecary Bar, see:
http://www.saltys.com/seattle/menus/Seattle_Cocktails.pdf .

When asked to talk about something people may not know about Salty’s, PR Spokesperson Eileen Mintz had a bevy of items to note.

“Something else that people don’t realize is that we sell Gift Cards, merchandise, a Cookbook, and a new one coming out in January, called “Good Ciao”, Italian recipes from Cortona Italy and northwest recipes from Salty’s. A collaboration with the owners, Kathryn Kingen and Gerry, with Kathryn doing much of the writing too! Also, we are most philanthropic. Every September, we produce for charity Cooking With Class, bring in all the other top chefs in the city and they cook together in 21 tables of 8 teaching everyone a great dish! We do Sexy Syrah in the spring for FareStart, to help the homeless and the list goes on. We also make a great steak!” exclaims Mintz.

So what’s in store for Salty’s on Alki? Mintz says “The owner plans to refurbish and remodel the bar area and bring the outdoors in with enclosed seating for year round eating on the decks. The city will go crazy with this one… they have been doing this for years in Vancouver waterfront restaurants but not in Seattle. It’s going to happen!”

She sounds pretty passionate about the restaurant, as should you. Salty’s on Alki is a great place to enjoy a delicious meal with a gorgeous view of Seattle. Don’t miss it!

View of Seattle skyline from Salty’s on Alki

Salty’s on Alki 1936 Harbor Avenue. S.W. Seattle, WA 98126 (map) (206) 937-1600

So there ya have it. My See and Eat tour of Seattle has come to a close (for now). Wipe away those tears. I’ll be back again reviewing a city near you. I hope you enjoyed this one and that it comes in handy the next time you visit the Emerald City. And speaking of the Emerald City, after hours upon hours of research, I have come to discover that the “tle” in Seattle officially* stands for “Tasty, Luscious Emerald city”. In other words, Seattle = See + Eat + Tasty Luscious Emerald city! Take that chief Sealth!

* No, not really

P.S. GO WARRIORS!